Projects worth the journey: between threats and hope in the Putumayo region of Colombia
We leave Ecuador – a country full of inspiring projects and definitely one of the most impressive on our journey through South America.
In Colombia, we venture across one of the border crossings that are considered ‘dangerous’ into the Putumayo region.
We don’t want to minimise the danger – it exists. Right at the border crossing, a policeman asks us if we don’t want to help him. He is standing in the rain and a little money for a drink would be welcome. We kindly say no – and he lets us into the country anyway. Welcome to Colombia, we think.
Caution and prejudice
As is so often the case, reality is not as black and white as we are told. The world is different in Putumayo.
People are surprised to see us as tourists. Most of them advise us to watch out for the army. We are lucky – we are not checked the whole way, although we do pass a few checkpoints.
There is not much here – and yet the first small projects are emerging, mostly in connection with nature conservation. Because that is a big issue here: the rainforest is disappearing.
Economy at the expense of nature
There are hardly any other sources of income. Cattle farming, the timber industry and oil production drive the economy – and at the same time the destruction. The jungle hardly stands a chance.
In addition, there is drug trafficking and organised crime. This border area is a central gateway in the cocaine trade to Ecuador – and from there to the big, wide world.
The guerrillas held sway here for a long time. Despite the peace agreement, they have never completely disappeared. Although there are initial attempts to build a tourism network, the movement in the region, and in the country as a whole, is currently heading in the wrong direction: more fighting, more violence, more drugs.
In general, Colombia is changing again – unfortunately for the worse.
Amazon’s Birds – a green island in the midst of destruction
The few small projects that exist are fighting for survival. They are constantly hanging by a thread. We visited two of them – and one is particularly close to our hearts: Amazon’s Birds.
Yolima and her family protect their small piece of land as best they can. Her mother has fought for years to keep it from being taken away from her. She was offered a lot of money – but for her, nature had more value.
Today, the area is just fifty hectares in size – and yet it is a green island in the middle of deforested fields. Eight different species of monkey live here, as well as countless birds and snakes.
The stars of the forest: pygmy marmosets
The highlight at Amazon’s Birds are the pygmy marmosets – the smallest members of the monkey family. So tiny that they can fit in the palm of your hand.
They live in groups, feed on the sap of a particular tree and have a strong lower jaw with which they can bite holes in the bark. Small insects are also on the menu, for the necessary protein boost.
These monkeys are highly endangered because they are often kept as pets.
One such tree is right on the property – and Yolima’s brother, Fleyder, takes us straight there. He attracts the animals with a few bananas. The monkeys jump over our heads, grab the food – and immediately flee back into the trees at the slightest movement.
A very knowledgeable family and a privilege for us
Fleyder knows every plant by its Latin name. He imitates bird calls perfectly. And most impressive, he taught himself everything.
We often meet guides who hardly know anything about nature. It’s different here: the whole family has worked intensively with their land – and lives with nature, not just from it.
We were lucky enough to spend several days with Yolima and her family – and were even allowed to go into the forest on our own.
Unfortunately, we didn’t see anything exciting at night, but the trust alone that they allowed us to do so was something special. Yolima asks us directly whether she can really trust us. She says that people have already come and taken fish. A difficult question – we can only tell her our story and hope that she believes us.
‘Protection starts here’
Their land has become a refuge for endangered species. But they are fighting – against deforestation, against indifference, against big money. And yet you can sense that they believe it is worth it.
Not because they have high hopes – but because they can’t help it. This piece of land is their livelihood. There are not many alternatives. They receive some support from NGOs and nature conservation organisations, but the question remains as to whether this is enough.
For us, Amazon Birds is one of these places of the future. Not because everything there is already perfect. But because it shows that the future is only created where people don’t give up.
Where – in the midst of violence, insecurity and environmental destruction – they still say: “This is my border. This is where protection begins.”
What you can do
If you ever come to the south of Colombia – take the plunge. Drive there. Ask for Amazon’s Birds. Or contact them via Social Media, Puerto Asís is also easy to reach by plane. They also know best what the security situation is like on the ground.
Once you’re there, sit in the shade of their forest. Watch the monkeys play. Listen to the birds.
And maybe – just maybe – enough people will come to help preserve this little place of the future.
More similar posts :
Places of the Future I: Sumak Kawsay in Situ
Places of the Future II: Maquipucuna reserve
Places of the Future III: Sinchi Warmi
Chuchini in Bolivia: Michaels working place