Projects worth the journey: an animal paradise on the Pacific side of the Andes
We continue our journey through Ecuador, a country full of contrasts. While there are many private initiatives to protect species, the extraction of raw materials is also booming. The country’s biodiversity is immense, both in terms of species and raw materials.
In 2021, the Ecuadorian Ministry of Energy expected to have reserves of 1.3 billion barrels of oil, most of which are located in the Amazon Basin — and this is just one of the smallest countries in South America! There are also rich deposits of gold, silver, copper, zinc and much more besides. These are all highly sought-after products in world trade.
However, legal mining can also be problematic, particularly in countries where the government does not enforce environmental regulations. Consequently, heavy metals find their way down the rivers into the Pacific or to the Atlantic through Brazil.
While we were in Ecuador in mid-March, an oil spill occurred in Esmeraldas. An estimated 25 000 barrels of oil spilled out when the oleoduct burst and affected 300 000 people in one of the poorest regions of the country. And this happened in an area where the rivers do not still have thousands of kilometres of land to cross.
A bird paradise close to the capital
The Maquipucuna Reserve is located on the same side of the Andes as Esmeraldas, but much higher up. Fortunately, it was not affected, as we found it is a magical place too.
We were undecided for a long time about whether to go there. The whole complex looked expensive, and there was also an entrance fee for the park. We hadn’t had any positive experiences with large lodges before, and we didn’t understand how it worked. In hindsight, however, we are glad that we went —somehow it wasn’t that big.
Isabel welcomed us with a beaming smile and perfect English. She had lived in the USA for a while because her mum studied and worked there. Her parents wanted to turn part of their home country Ecuador into a protected area.
The Maquipucuna Foundation was established 35 years ago. The land had lain fallow for a long time, but the Chocó Andino region of Ecuador, characterised by its biodiversity, had become a second home to the family.
They had reforested much of the area with wild avocado trees. A native tree species. They also began to develop a tourism project involving a small lodge.
The trees grew and the forest recovered, and around 20 years after planting, the first bears arrived. Without realising it, they had created a new food source for the spectacled bear. These animals love wild avocados, but the season is in August and September. So, we were unlucky. We were definitely there too early to see them.
However, the lodge and the park attract many other animals. The area is renowned for its diverse birdlife, particularly hummingbirds, and it is also home to a variety of snakes. That’s why we were there. We were allowed to walk up and down their hiking trails, and they trusted us completely. It’s nice because it’s often forbidden to walk alone on clearly signposted paths. We’re not talking about treks through the middle of nowhere in the jungle.
Our eternal search for the snake: finally a success
During the night, we saw giant snails and a kinkajou. During the day, our long-awaited wish was finally granted when we spotted an American lance snake, Bothrops asper. In Ecuador, it is known as ‘Equis’ because of its X pattern. It was curled up right next to the hiking trail.
We walked past it first. My heart stopped for a moment when I looked back: “Michi, there’s a snake right here!” First, we put some distance between us and calmed down, and then we got the camera ready. The snake lay there and watched us. And we watched back.
Yes, I’ll answer the question up front: it’s venomous. It’s also known for causing most bites. However, as we often repeat, as long as you don’t attack the snake or step on it, it won’t do anything. This is the best example. It was less than a metre away, and we both walked pass it really close.
A balanced jungle
Isabel, the founders’ daughter, had a wonderful reaction when we told her. She was delighted and said that she wouldn’t have seen the snake. That’s usually the case. We had actively searched for this snake for three months. And we learned one thing: It’s not that easy to see one. However, where there are snakes, the ecosystem is balanced. Maquipucuna is a wonderful example of this. There, nature and tourism are brought together without sacrificing luxury. The best thing was that it didn’t feel aloof; it felt like a small family.
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Looking for the spectacled bear
Chuchini in Bolivia: Michaels working place
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