What exactly is so fascinating about waterfalls is a mystery to me. It’s really just water cascading down. Maybe it’s all the power of nature that you can feel there. Maybe that’s when we really feel exposed to the forces of nature. Or maybe water simply fascinates us. Or maybe it’s the roar that silences everything and invades our thoughts, because with these masses and heights of water, it’s definitely no longer a gentle ripple.
Over a year ago we visited the Iguazú Falls in Brazil and Argentina. They were impressive too and I’m glad we got to see both sides. You can visit the National Park from the Argentinian side and from the Brazilian side – each is unique.
Two of the world’s highest waterfalls
Because of this fascination, we also drove and walked to two waterfalls in Peru. According to Wikipedia, they are among the highest in the world, depending on how you count them, as they have several drops. And although they are so close together, they couldn’t be more different.
Both are a great spectacle, and we got the order right, as the second was even more impressive. But no matter where you are, there’s something special about having something so powerful all to yourself. There are few waterfalls this high in Europe (the Mattenbach Falls in Switzerland, but with more sections), but here in South America, the Andes are made for water cascading over edges into the depths.
Both waterfalls are only accessible on foot. At the Gocta waterfall we were allowed in after some persuasion at the ticket office. It takes 4 hours to get there and back and it was already after 2pm. It gets dark at 6pm. But it worked out. Because we were so late, we only met the tourists that were on their way back. Many on horseback (for those who can’t or don’t want to walk). The pricing war interesting: 15 dollars per horse, unless you need a weight surcharge, then it’s 20 dollars (negotiable 😅).
At the end, we stood alone in front of the 771-metre-high waterfall – divided into two drops. We were able to listen to the roar in peace and enjoy a spray-bath. The walk back was at night, but there was a full moon, so it was a wonderful night hike.
Mythical creatures as protectors
The waterfall was only ‘discovered’ in 2002 and surveyed in 2006. Legend has it that a siren guards the waterfall and protects the fish; those who valued their lives did not dare go near it. For this reason it was considered undiscovered for a long time. It was probably also very difficult to access. Today it is easy to visit, even without a guide. The trail is well maintained and in good condition.
The world’s fifth highest waterfall?
The Yumbilla waterfall was measured in 2007 and is considered to be one of the highest in the world. Waterfalls are difficult to measure – as it depends on the amount of drops, water flowing through or highest free fall. But this one is impressive. It consists of three big drops and two minor ones, which together are 896 metres high.
Yumbilla is more remote, there are no horses or guides, the trail is more adventurous but well maintained and much more beautiful through the cloud forest. After 1.5 hours we are between two sections. Again it’s just the two of us, looking up and down. Only on the way back do we meet two small groups of tourists.
Both waterfalls were an experience, partly because they had been unknown for so long. Legends have protected them because the locals didn’t visit. As a result, the paths are still adventurous and not accessible by vehicle. Iguazú was different: thousands of tourists and a huge logistics operation.
It was also special that the path to Yumbilla runs along a rock face. These walls were used as burial grounds. You can find pottery shards and graves from the Preinka culture. But more on the Chachapoyas next week.