The myth Potosí
As Cervantes once said: “If I had to pay you […] the treasure of Venice, the mines of Potosí would not be enough to pay you”, such was the fame of Potosí’s wealth.
Around 1545, the Spanish conquistadors discovered the closest thing to El Dorado: the Cerro Rico. This mountain, in whose shadow the city of Potosí hides, led to the massive exploitation of silver.
Almost five centuries later, the once majestic 4700-metre peak has been transformed into a labyrinth of unstable mines, so unstable that mining above 4400 metres is forbidden. Though the norm is a bit ignored since mining continues to be the region’s economic driver. The province of Potosí is rich in minerals: silver, tin, lead and zinc, as well as lithium in the Salar de Uyuni.
Scars from history
The Spanish Crown introduced a forced labour system known as the Mita. Indigenous people were forced to work in mines in inhumane conditios, exposed to caveins and disease. Nowadays, the dangers are still the same and the work, although supposedly not forced, is the main source of income for many families in Potosí.
A descent into the underworld
We visited the Potosí mines on a tour that is ultimately for tourists, but which provides an alternative livelihood for the community. The tour is surreal and risky. The security measures are what they are, and they are not improved for tourists. We entered the gates of hell.
The miners work for hours (some for up to 24 hours straight) in the dark, with only a small torch, chewing coca leaves and drinking 96% alcohol. All this is accompanied by a chaotic symphony of dynamite explosions. They use dynamite to open up holes, then they remove the minerals with wheelbarrows. The minerals are piled up outside until there is enough to load a truck.
The extracted minerals are taken to the mining companies, where they are processed using mechanical but simple methods. This process requires large amounts of water, a scarce resource in the region. According to our guide, the city only has water for one hour, while the mining companies have a constant supply.
According to the Bolivian Mining Corporation, around 12 000 people work in and for the mines. The BBC, on the other hand, puts the number of miners at around 1500, a figure that matches our guide’s. Most of them are adult men, as women are considered to bring bad luck, unfortunately there are also minors who ‘help’, despite it being illegal. Our guide informs us that “children no longer work in the mines […] they help from the age of 14”. Clearly, the practice has not yet been eradicated.
Between faith and despair
Life in the mines is fraught with danger. To face these challenges, the miners worship Pachamama, Mother Earth, from whom they believe their wealth comes, and the Tío, a deity of the mine, with coca leaves, alcohol and cigarettes to obtain his protection each time they cross the threshold into the underground.