Isn’t it dangerous to travel in South America? This is by far the most common question we are asked. In Europe it’s usually only the bad news that gets through, at least in the media. Of course, this is also due to the fact that when everything is going well, there is usually no need to inform. And yes, the local media is also very negative.
According to several Ecuadorian newspapers, 750 people were murdered in Ecuador in January. That’s a lot. One every hour. Crime is rampant throughout the region and the gangs have a lot of control. The security forces are corrupt, as are the authorities and politicians… It’s best not to talk about them at all. Something is bound to happen in this region, isn’t it?
Our safety strategy: preparation and gut feeling
Safety is our number one priority. Far away from home it is even more so, and we always think about it. We don’t want to play down the dangers, but we do want to put them into perspective.
We have learnt on this trip that it is important to listen to your gut feeling, maybe go a few kilometres further and ask the people. But we have also learnt to put the news into perspective and to ask different people, because everyone values safety differently. So far (and we hope it stays that way) we haven’t had any bad experiences.
We don’t just go anywhere – even if it looks like that sometimes. We do our research and avoid big cities. In more densely populated areas, or if we have to go into a city, we look for a campsite to stay the night. In Chachapoyas, Peru, we even spent a couple of nights in a hotel because there was nothing proper and safe to sleep in the vehicle.
Parking is always a problem, there’s a lot of hustle and bustle, lots of people coming and going. In some supermarkets, where we don’t think it’s safe to just leave the car, one person stays in it and the other does the shopping.
Ask a local: ‘Is it safe here?’
You can tell whether you are welcome or not. People either wave at us or look at us very suspiciously. If there’s no other way, we get out and ask. People are usually sceptical but still curious, and if you explain who you are and what you do with a smile, you’ll get a lot further.
The answer to the question “Is it safe here?” is always interesting. You often hear that it is very dangerous in the neighbouring village, but not in theirs. The person in the neighbouring village says the same thing about the other village. Then we know it’s usually OK. But if they say it’s dangerous in their village, then we know they mean it. They usually give us a tip about a safe place and we continue our journey there.
Of course we rely on others. In a way, we have to. If someone wants to harm us, they can deceive us. That’s why apps, WhatsApp and Facebook groups of travellers are so valuable. Because these people have the same goal and pass on warnings.
Tourists as a target? When it gets dangerous
Crime in South America is characterised by gangs. They settle scores with each other and tourists tend to be in the wrong place at the wrong time (this can happen anywhere in the world). Our boat captain on the dive trip here on the coast of Ecuador also said: ‘Yes, it’s not without danger, but it’s always gang members. As a local, you try not to get involved and have the protection money ready. But tourists are not the main target.
There are also gangs of robbers who target tourists’ cars. Again, warnings on forums, enquiries and staying off the tourist mile can help. This is one of the reasons why we avoid very touristy places, furthermore it is often not (or no longer?) nice.
Experiences from different countries
So far we have been warmly welcomed. In Brazil, we have often been stopped in the countryside and invited in for a meal, or one or two army majors have given us their number in case we need help.
In Peru, we didn’t travel along the coast on the Panamericana, but on the eastern side of the Andes. There are drug crops there, but hardly any tourists, and the police are not used to ripping them off. One of them tried it once, but we had an answer for everything. He ended up a bit overwhelmed.
San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is notorious for car thefts. There, we never leave the car unattended. In Bolivia, we once had to pay a toll because they didn’t want to open the door. Stupid, but in the end it wasn’t dangerous. Now our experience helps others. We posted a warning about the experience on a widely used app.
San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is notorious for car theft. We never leave the car unattended there. In Bolivia we had to pay a toll once because they wouldn’t open the door. Stupid, but in the end it wasn’t dangerous. Now our experience is helping others. We posted a warning about the experience on a widely used app.
The little Swiss cross trick
A friendly face always helps, speak softly but clearly and occasionally look a bit lost/confused when asked a question, as if you don’t understand it. Michael is way better at it than Cora…
The Swiss cross on the car also raises questions. Most people think it’s the Red Cross. And they ask which NGO we work for, or let us through at the toll: it could be an emergency. Rarely someone recognises it as a Swiss flag, but when they do, they always have to ask us if it’s true, because their colleagues don’t believe them.
Conclusion: security is relative and fortunately often better than feared
We are curious to see how things will develop in the North. But, for the most part we have felt safe and reassured. That restores some faith in humanity.