Many countries in South America are considered dangerous. Embassies issue warnings: beware of theft, mugging, and scams. Yet in our experience, this applies to many cities around the world – not just on this continent.

Reading travel advisories certainly makes sense. But if you interpret them too narrowly, you barely dare to venture beyond your familiar surroundings. Still, the reality in many non‑European countries is actually different. We’ve already described how we move around and how we ensure the greatest possible safety for ourselves.

Since we’ve been travelling in Venezuela, our perception of what security truly means has shifted. Politically, we have encountered no major obstacles so far. In most countries, tourists are welcomed. The problems usually occur among criminal groups—and primarily affect the local population. Most of these conflicts can be avoided by steering clear of certain areas and major cities.

Security has many dimensions

Security while travelling consists of several layers. On one hand, there is the immediate threat of crime—from petty theft to mugging or even kidnapping. On the other hand, the state itself can pose a threat: for example, via corrupt security forces or political instability, as in the case of guerrillas or cartels pursuing their goals through abduction or extortion.

Everyday travel: observations and strategies

Personal safety has been most relevant for us in cities like Santa Marta (Colombia) or Puerto Ordaz (Venezuela), as well as at border crossings—we took extra precautions in these areas. Away from urban centres, the atmosphere was generally more relaxed; people were helpful and often surprised to encounter foreigners.

A simple but effective trick: never travel the same route multiple times—this deters targeted ambushes. In Colombia, we passed through a guerrilla zone. At the checkpoints we spoke with locals who assured us it was safe during the day. There were even signs with clear rules: no movement between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m., tinted windows and tarpaulins to be left open, faces visible—so they could identify who was passing through.

The guerrilla obviously knew we were tourists. And indeed: they had an interest in letting travellers through—tourism brings money. Unfortunately, they undermine their own efforts by attacking government forces.

Safety through local networks

On the final day of our journey, after a long muddy stretch, we helped pull a small sedan out of a ditch—even though it had a box of ammunition on the passenger seat. That evening we asked a local contact whether it would be safe to drive the last few kilometres in the dark. The answer: “No problem from here on.” Just one day earlier—only 100 km behind us—we had been explicitly warned not to travel after 6 p.m. We had therefore arranged an early stop for the night.

The lovely thing about travelling is that most locals enjoy meeting travellers. Initially some may be sceptical, but that often eases quickly once they realise we aren’t typical tourists. Many then happily share helpful tips.

Coastal Colombia: Little hospitality, much distrust

On the Colombian Caribbean coast we felt the least safe. The local people were often unfriendly, sometimes even hostile. Presumably they’ve seen too many tourists—so they assume there’s always something to gain. Several times they tried to scam us. Fortunately, we had a rough idea of prices and were able to push back.

Colombia was also where we witnessed violence first‑hand: two men attacked each other with machetes on the street. We left the scene quickly. And again, the lesson repeats itself: where many tourists are, there are many looking to capitalise—in an honest way or not.

Police checks, smuggling routes and grey areas

Outside tourist circuits, police officers are often not well‑informed. Many don’t know the rules applying to foreign vehicles—which also makes them less prone to targeted extortion.

In highly conflicted regions, especially border areas with heavy smuggling activity, we try to spend as little time as possible. These towns are seldom pleasant, and the shorter the stay, the lower the risk. Wherever there’s something to gain—be it goods, control, or money—crime rates increase accordingly.

How was Venezuela?

We experienced a very different security situation in Venezuela. Robberies are rare, and kidnappings by gangs have dropped significantly, according to our conversations. This was confirmed to us by police, military, locals, and expatriates living there long‑term. For about five years the situation has noticeably improved—even though there’s a growing sense of decline again.

Despite the countless checkpoints—209 in the last month alone—we were treated properly at every one. Most simply waved us through; occasionally they checked our papers. Once we were offered water, another time even coffee.

We felt uneasy only shortly before the mayoral elections. They were announced just one month prior—a sign of how quickly the political situation can change. At present, foreigners are welcomed because they bring foreign currency. But that could shift at any moment if political incentives change.

Between stereotype and reality

Many warned us about Venezuela and Ecuador. Yet these two countries surprised us in a positive way. Yes, they have its dangers—no sugar-coating there. Life for the local population is often harsh. But we felt safer there than in many other countries—especially compared to Colombia.

We learned a valuable lesson: it’s worth talking with other travellers. Because holidaying, overlanding or living in a country—these are very different experiences.

Isn’t it dangerous to travel in South America? This is by far the most common question we are asked. In Europe it’s usually only the bad news that gets through, at least in the media. Of course, this is also due to the fact that when everything is going well, there is usually no need to inform. And yes, the local media is also very negative.

According to several Ecuadorian newspapers, 750 people were murdered in Ecuador in January. That’s a lot. One every hour. Crime is rampant throughout the region and the gangs have a lot of control. The security forces are corrupt, as are the authorities and politicians… It’s best not to talk about them at all. Something is bound to happen in this region, isn’t it?

Our safety strategy: preparation and gut feeling

Safety is our number one priority. Far away from home it is even more so, and we always think about it. We don’t want to play down the dangers, but we do want to put them into perspective.

We have learnt on this trip that it is important to listen to your gut feeling, maybe go a few kilometres further and ask the people. But we have also learnt to put the news into perspective and to ask different people, because everyone values safety differently. So far (and we hope it stays that way) we haven’t had any bad experiences.

We don’t just go anywhere – even if it looks like that sometimes. We do our research and avoid big cities. In more densely populated areas, or if we have to go into a city, we look for a campsite to stay the night. In Chachapoyas, Peru, we even spent a couple of nights in a hotel because there was nothing proper and safe to sleep in the vehicle.

Parking is always a problem, there’s a lot of hustle and bustle, lots of people coming and going. In some supermarkets, where we don’t think it’s safe to just leave the car, one person stays in it and the other does the shopping.

Ask a local: ‘Is it safe here?’

You can tell whether you are welcome or not. People either wave at us or look at us very suspiciously. If there’s no other way, we get out and ask. People are usually sceptical but still curious, and if you explain who you are and what you do with a smile, you’ll get a lot further.

The answer to the question “Is it safe here?” is always interesting. You often hear that it is very dangerous in the neighbouring village, but not in theirs. The person in the neighbouring village says the same thing about the other village. Then we know it’s usually OK. But if they say it’s dangerous in their village, then we know they mean it. They usually give us a tip about a safe place and we continue our journey there.

Of course we rely on others. In a way, we have to. If someone wants to harm us, they can deceive us. That’s why apps, WhatsApp and Facebook groups of travellers are so valuable. Because these people have the same goal and pass on warnings.

Tourists as a target? When it gets dangerous

Crime in South America is characterised by gangs. They settle scores with each other and tourists tend to be in the wrong place at the wrong time (this can happen anywhere in the world). Our boat captain on the dive trip here on the coast of Ecuador also said: ‘Yes, it’s not without danger, but it’s always gang members. As a local, you try not to get involved and have the protection money ready. But tourists are not the main target.

There are also gangs of robbers who target tourists’ cars. Again, warnings on forums, enquiries and staying off the tourist mile can help. This is one of the reasons why we avoid very touristy places, furthermore it is often not (or no longer?) nice.

Experiences from different countries

So far we have been warmly welcomed. In Brazil, we have often been stopped in the countryside and invited in for a meal, or one or two army majors have given us their number in case we need help.

In Peru, we didn’t travel along the coast on the Panamericana, but on the eastern side of the Andes. There are drug crops there, but hardly any tourists, and the police are not used to ripping them off. One of them tried it once, but we had an answer for everything. He ended up a bit overwhelmed.

San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is notorious for car thefts. There, we never leave the car unattended. In Bolivia, we once had to pay a toll because they didn’t want to open the door. Stupid, but in the end it wasn’t dangerous. Now our experience helps others. We posted a warning about the experience on a widely used app.

San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is notorious for car theft. We never leave the car unattended there. In Bolivia we had to pay a toll once because they wouldn’t open the door. Stupid, but in the end it wasn’t dangerous. Now our experience is helping others. We posted a warning about the experience on a widely used app.

The little Swiss cross trick

A friendly face always helps, speak softly but clearly and occasionally look a bit lost/confused when asked a question, as if you don’t understand it. Michael is way better at it than Cora…

The Swiss cross on the car also raises questions. Most people think it’s the Red Cross. And they ask which NGO we work for, or let us through at the toll: it could be an emergency. Rarely someone recognises it as a Swiss flag, but when they do, they always have to ask us if it’s true, because their colleagues don’t believe them.

Conclusion: security is relative and fortunately often better than feared

We are curious to see how things will develop in the North. But, for the most part we have felt safe and reassured. That restores some faith in humanity.