Looking back on 2025: a year full of adventures.

In 2025, we were on the road for the entire year. There were no quick flights back to Europe and no visits to see family – although that’s not entirely true, we visited Michael’s sister living in Costa Rica and his other sister came to visit us.

We experienced a great deal, mostly good. Nevertheless, there are moments when homesickness creeps in.

Looking back, it’s hard to believe we had the time to live all these things. The year went by so quickly. Here is a brief look back to remind ourselves of all the wonderful things we saw and experienced.

Peru

Things got off to a great start in Colombia with the world’s smallest monkeys, the pygmy marmosets. Then the itinerary included a drive through guerrilla territory for Cora’s birthday, followed by a few weeks helping out on a cocoa farm and searching for anacondas in the Llanos. During the search, we were surprised by an Orinoco crocodile coming our way.

We also went on a hippo safari on the Magdalena River – we couldn’t stop marvelling at it all. Afterwards, Michi did his dive instructor training. For once, we stayed in one place for an entire month and were able to do some repairs on the car, such as fixing our window. Only the Airbnb host was peculiar; we definitely don’t want to go back there.

Venezuela

Venezuela – our favourite! Finally, a real adventure! Right at the start, we were met by the secret service and asked into a white container for a three-hour interview. That wasn’t exactly great. But once we were allowed in the country, everything went like clockwork.

Maracaibo was like a journey back to the 1970s. The food and service were good—a blessing after Colombia. And the people were exceptionally kind – everyone. They invited us into their homes for barbecues and rum. They organised diesel whenever things didn’t go smoothly.

Only the amount of driving was exhausting. Unfortunately, our container ship to Panama departed from Colombia, so we had to do a round trip through the vastness of Venezuela. We sat in the car for hours and had the occasional row. However, prospecting for gold in the Wild South of Venezuela put everything right again.

The food was mediocre. The last day was lovely, though: we visited local weavers, walked through a colonial town, and bought cowboy boots for Michael. Finally, we went to the thermal baths to relax. One week was enough.

That’s what the roads in South America are like. There are huge differences and conditions often change with the seasons. But on the whole, the countries are passable with any type of vehicle. You just have to choose your routes accordingly.

Motorways and toll roads

The main roads are paved and there are usually good motorways. You will make good progress, especially around the big cities. You usually pay a toll, depending on the country, a few cents as in Bolivia (although their tariffs were very opaque) or always a dollar as in Ecuador.

Tolls are usually charged on the motorways, but they’re in good condition. Only the speed bumps used to limit speed are a major hazard. Most local drivers, even those with the best off-road vehicles, brake very hard just before them, so you run the risk of hitting them from behind – it pays to keep your distance. And don’t forget that you have to expect everything on a motorway: walkers, cyclists, horse riders, cows, llamas, simply everything.

Mud and potholes

Country roads are different, they may have just been resurfaced or they may be full of potholes. The mountain roads are always a surprise – even if they’re supposed to be national roads, don’t expect to drive faster than 50km/h.

The smaller roads can have potholes and you have to be prepared for anything. But this is true everywhere. That’s where a high-riding car comes in handy. It doesn’t have to be a 4×4, but a two-wheel drive without a lift is definitely limited. And above all, every pothole (and there are many) becomes a major bump in the road.

Then there are the unsealed roads: some are brilliant, others almost impassable. This mainly depends on when they were last maintained and whether it is the rainy season. This means that conditions can change within months or from one day to the next.

The mountains slide, and there are places that are known for this. After a slide there is not much left of the original road and you can forget about getting through. However, the local bus drivers usually know what the situation is like. It helps to ask or just turn around when the road ends.

Is 4×4 compulsory?

Most routes can be done without 4×4; though if it’s very muddy or steep we’re happy to have it, but there are often alternative routes that are easier.

In our experience, your own driving ability is more important than whether you have 2WD or 4WD. Some drivers get further with their 2WD than any other driver of an off-road vehicle. So it’s worth investing in a good off-road driving course before you start your travels, as you’ll also get to know the car better.

We got stuck three times

We only got stuck three times: once because it had rained so much overnight that we couldn’t drive on the muddy country roads. We had to wait a day for it to dry. The other time it was also raining and we were going up a stretch where there wasn’t really a road – but we wanted to get to that bridge. Once we had deflated the tyres and put our recovery boards in place, we got out. Another time the road was completely washed away and we had to wait until another road was built. Luckily we were never in danger.

In Bolivia, we were stuck for a while because of protests and road closures, but we got to meet a lot of the locals in the town. In Argentina we had to turn back 200 km because we couldn’t cross the river – too much water.

So actually RAIN is the deciding factor. When it rains, you often have to wait for it to stop and the road to dry out a bit or find another route.

Road works and schedules

Roadworks are an often forgotten detail. Here, unlike in Europe, they like to close the road completely, without providing a diversion and without being able to keep traffic flowing in one lane. Then the road is closed either for the whole day – as happened in Ecuador from 9am to 6pm. Or by the hour, like in Peru when we went to Machu Picchu. That means they work for 2 hours and then take an hour break to let the cars through.

The many signs with the schedule would be great – if they kept to the time on them. Sometimes they work an extra hour – or two – or they don’t work at all, in which case ‘lucky you’. As a reminder, schedules in South America are only a guide and are never binding.

As I’m writing this, I’m waiting in line again. They need to fix a pipe and everything has stopped. All day long, from 9am to 6pm. Even though only one excavator is working. But they had already announced it at the crossroads. Two women stood there with a handwritten cardboard sign – just like the ones you draw in primary school. They told us that the roadworks had been announced on the Ministry’s website a week ago, but no one had thought to put up a sign.

We just laughed and knew that we’d be waiting for 4 hours (until 6pm) or 6 hours anyway. The detour takes twelve hours and is 300 kilometres longer.

We soon leave the land of the Incas behind us. Their culture was our constant companion – from Argentina to Colombia, we stumbled across Inca stones.

But before we say goodbye to this empire, let’s look back at what this advanced civilisation meant for the region. And why we learn so little about it in school in Europe – except that it was great, built Machu Picchu and had a lot of gold.

Tawantinsuyu – The land of four parts

The name ‘Inca’ often stands for an entire people. In fact, the Incas were originally a small tribe in the neighbourhood of Cusco, that believed they descended from the sun god Inti. However, within just 100 years – roughly between 1438 and 1533 – they created the largest contiguous empire that ever existed on the American continent: Tawantinsuyu.

This ‘land of four parts’ stretched from what is now the southern border of Colombia to Chile and Argentina. The empire covered over 2 million square kilometres. It was characterised by a multitude of indigenous peoples, languages and landscapes – connected by a central administrative system and a gigantic road network.

They conquered areas where other impressive peoples lived, who are even less well known in Europe. The Chachapoyas in northern Peru adopted the quadrangular architectural style of the Incas, the Uros fled from the Incas to their reed islands on Lake Titicaca and in Samaipata they took over a sacred stone. The course of expansion was immense – until the Spanish conquered the entire area.

A road network that still exists today

One of the most impressive legacies of the Incas is the Qhapaq Ñan, the Royal Road System. It is estimated that it comprised more than 40 000 kilometres of roads that meandered through the Andes, along the coasts and into the jungle. Many of these roads are still passable today, some are still used by locals, others are hidden and forgotten next to modern roads.

We also came across Inca trails ourselves – in search of snakes in the cloud forest in Ecuador, we travelled through deep gorges, known as chaquiñán, which were created by centuries of walking. Of course, the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is one of them. Although we didn’t walk it. Instead, we marvelled at the extremely precise architecture of the Incas in Pisac.

Unity through administration, not language

The empire was multicultural, but the Incas created a unified administration that held the empire together. In contrast to Europe, they knew no money, so no taxes were levied. However, the people had to perform hard collective labour. Especially the peasants, as the nobility and clergy had privileges. Nevertheless, they were well organised and distributed their goods and services throughout the empire so that disasters could be relieved and everyone was fed.

Quechua was made the administration’s language, although it was not spoken by everyone. However, it was so widespread that Quechua is still spoken today in many parts of the Andean region – not only is it an official language in many countries, but the number of speakers is even increasing.

The fact that an empire of this size and efficiency could exist without writing is a remarkable aspect – and could be one reason why the Inca Empire is often only dealt with superficially in European history lessons. The first written sources come from the conquistadors. Without written sources of their own, without chronicles from the perspective of the Incas themselves, much has only been preserved from Spanish reports – often distorted and incomplete.

The focus in European history lessons is on the fall of the Inca Empire, as the Europeans left their traces behind up until today, and not its rise.

A legacy that remains

On our journey through South America, the presence of the Incas was not always obvious – but it was constant. We continually learnt more about what ‘Inca’ actually means. We drove through the valley of the Incas’ last resistance, we walked along an old Inca trail, and we constantly saw the agricultural terraces that are still being cultivated 500 years later.

What remains is the impression of an empire that has not simply disappeared. It was defeated, yes – but it never completely dissolved. It lives on in the language, the paths, the architecture and the people.

The Inca Empire was more than Machu Picchu and gold. It was a complex and well-organised network in a huge region. For us, it was an immersion into the living history of a culture that seemed conquered and forgotten, but which still strongly characterises everyday life.

‘You can see everything here: their sarcophagi, their culture, their remains,’ explains Sonia Bautista as we arrive at the top of the cliff. Sonia is taking us on a day-long journey through the culture of the Chachapoyas. At the very end of our journey through Peru, we come across an ancient civilisation that is virtually unknown in Europe. There was a lot of hype about them a few years ago when new sarcophagi were discovered.

But don’t expect to see huge Egyptian pyramids in the sand. The Chachapoyas lived in a mountainous region of the Andes and their final resting place was in the steep rocky slopes. Accessible to everyone – as long as you are fit and can cope with the rough terrain. The jungle protected the Chachapoyas, hiding them from conquerors and grave robbers, and today they are slowly reappearing due to deforestation.

It was only in 2006, Sonia explains, that the villagers discovered the graves, but did not know what to do with them. It took another couple of years for the site being accessible. A teacher was sent to the village of San Gerónimo in 2012. He rediscovered the graves and knew how important they were. The teacher was able to motivate the village community to built a path and small bridges and even brought in Peruvian television. But they never became very well known, so they are not overcrowded. What a stroke of luck for us – and for them.

The only clue: a location on Google

The village of San Gerónimo is 5 kilometres from the burial site. The road up there is steep and winding, actually more of a track, but in pretty good condition. We get lost once because we follow Google Maps instead of the signs.

After an hour’s drive, we reach the village. A small mountain village with a surprisingly beautiful school. It is inhabited, quite lively and we have to ask because we don’t see any signs to the Cerro del Tigre, as the burial site is officially called. However, the villagers know how to help us immediately. They call the person in charge and make us wait.

Thirty minutes later we are told to drive up the hill, about 1.5 kilometres, where someone will be waiting for us. Sure enough, Sonia is standing a little higher up the road waving to us. We almost missed her. We are sceptical at first, but we stop and talk to her for a while. The car park is just off the road – hopefully the slope is stable enough.

We find it a bit expensive; we are used to other prices in Peru (except in Cuzco and the surrounding area). It costs a whole 20 dollars for two with a private guide. But we’ve only heard good things, and as we haven’t seen the sarcophagi yet, we decide to go.

Later, Sonia explains why it was so easy to find her in the village: They pay 5 soles to anyone who calls them. The price is justified, because another 10 soles per person go directly to the community, which is now building a new meeting house with noble material. That’s what they call concrete. The guide keeps the rest for his working hours. A total of 80 soles, or 20 dollars.

Meadows, forests, graves

We walk up a muddy path. Sonia in flip-flops, a small water bottle in her hand, we in walking boots and rucksacks. We continue over meadows, under quinine trees, down again, over a small wooden bridge and then steeply up into the forest.

About 3.5 kilometres in about one hour, with lots of photo stops, then a turn to the right and voilá: The remains of the temples in the middle of the rock. Former fireplaces, human bones and adobe buildings.

The Chachapoyas culture dates back to the 9th century and left many cave paintings and other temples and tombs. Around 1470, the Chachapoyas became part of the Inca Empire. Right at the beginning, where we came through, you can see the round buildings, which shows that it belongs to the Chachapoya culture; if it’s square, like further down the valley, then it’s Inca,’ says Sonia. The round tombs are still painted, everything is as we found it, even the paint is still there. They got the paint from tree bark, it was good paint.

The most famous Chachapoya site is Kuélap. But because it is so far south, we decided not to go there. It’s more touristy and less adventurous. Then we saw this place on the map and thought it would be a good idea to give it a try. Once again, it was worth it.

Mausoleums and sarcophagi in the rock

The most remarkable feature of the Chachapoyas were their tombs. There were two types: mausoleums in small caves as communal graves and sarcophagi as individual graves. The latter were always placed on rocky slopes that were even more difficult to access. Just like where we are now.

After the first buildings, we continue along the slope. There are several caves with human bones. They are all still there. As I said, nothing has been touched, just a rope to prevent people walking over the remains. A little further on we stand under a rock overhang. Sonia shows us a small wooden walkway that leads to a tree. The stability of the platform looks a little doubtful. We have to climb up one by one as it’s not safe for two people. The whole thing is a bit wobbly and doesn’t feel very safe—but if you’ve come this far… you’ve got to go through it.

Hold on tight, up the ladder, turn around, sit down and, wow! There they are, less than ten metres away: thirteen small, shiny sarcophagi. The remains of the aristocratic families were buried in them, the commoners in the caves. It is incredible that they are so well preserved, with paintings 500 to 600 years old.

Unbelievable that no tomb robbers have taken them. I ask Sonia: One day a little mummy just disappeared from the temple. But the sarcophagi are not so easy to get at, fortunately. There are apparently more sarcophagi further up the rock, but that would be a much bigger adventure. They have tried several times to find a safe route from the village, without success. We briefly consider asking her if she knows anyone who could lead us there, though we don’t have time for that much adventure.

The somewhat different offering

We still enjoyed every minute there. We waited for the rain to stop and for Sonia to make her small offering at the altar. Three human skulls surrounded by alcohol and cigarettes. ‘I always take some coca, make the sign of the cross and place it in front of the altar, so that our ancestors protect us and give us strength and energy,’ says Sonia.

We don’t have the usual gifts with us, but Michael finds some gummy bears. We give place them as our offering. Maybe the ancestors will be pleased and give us some of their strength for our journey. We could use it.

Now that we think about it, maybe they have already given us something, because this was one of those tours that we will remember and talk about for a long time.

Two of the world’s highest waterfalls

Because of this fascination, we also drove and walked to two waterfalls in Peru. According to Wikipedia, they are among the highest in the world, depending on how you count them, as they have several drops. And although they are so close together, they couldn’t be more different.

Both are a great spectacle, and we got the order right, as the second was even more impressive. But no matter where you are, there’s something special about having something so powerful all to yourself. There are few waterfalls this high in Europe (the Mattenbach Falls in Switzerland, but with more sections), but here in South America, the Andes are made for water cascading over edges into the depths.

Both waterfalls are only accessible on foot. At the Gocta waterfall we were allowed in after some persuasion at the ticket office. It takes 4 hours to get there and back and it was already after 2pm. It gets dark at 6pm. But it worked out. Because we were so late, we only met the tourists that were on their way back. Many on horseback (for those who can’t or don’t want to walk). The pricing war interesting: 15 dollars per horse, unless you need a weight surcharge, then it’s 20 dollars (negotiable ).

At the end, we stood alone in front of the 771-metre-high waterfall – divided into two drops. We were able to listen to the roar in peace and enjoy a spray-bath. The walk back was at night, but there was a full moon, so it was a wonderful night hike.

Mythical creatures as protectors

The waterfall was only ‘discovered’ in 2002 and surveyed in 2006. Legend has it that a siren guards the waterfall and protects the fish; those who valued their lives did not dare go near it. For this reason it was considered undiscovered for a long time. It was probably also very difficult to access. Today it is easy to visit, even without a guide. The trail is well maintained and in good condition.

The world’s fifth highest waterfall?

The Yumbilla waterfall was measured in 2007 and is considered to be one of the highest in the world. Waterfalls are difficult to measure – as it depends on the amount of drops, water flowing through or highest free fall. But this one is impressive. It consists of three big drops and two minor ones, which together are 896 metres high.

Yumbilla is more remote, there are no horses or guides, the trail is more adventurous but well maintained and much more beautiful through the cloud forest. After 1.5 hours we are between two sections. Again it’s just the two of us, looking up and down. Only on the way back do we meet two small groups of tourists.

Both waterfalls were an experience, partly because they had been unknown for so long. Legends have protected them because the locals didn’t visit. As a result, the paths are still adventurous and not accessible by vehicle. Iguazú was different: thousands of tourists and a huge logistics operation.

It was also special that the path to Yumbilla runs along a rock face. These walls were used as burial grounds. You can find pottery shards and graves from the Preinka culture. But more on the Chachapoyas next week.

We find something on the map: about 300 kilometres away, about 10 hours drive. The village is at an altitude of 1900 metres and lives in eternal spring. Sounds good. So we pack everything up and drive to Oxapampa.

At a short stop on the way we are spoken to – in Swiss German! And then invited to a beer in the evening. That’s a good start, we think. It’s finally getting green again as we head towards the Amazon, along the eastern flank of the Andes.

Farmers and craftsmen to colonise the Amazon

The valley from Oxapampa to Codo del Pozuzo is unique in landscape and history. It is teeming with emigrant families, those who came here a long time ago and you can still see it in their faces, as the valley was isolated for a long time. Nobody wanted to live there and until 1975 there was only a beaten track.

The valley was not uninhabited when the settlers arrived, there were indigenous tribes from the jungle. But the Peruvian government wanted to open up the area and colonise it with groups of its own choosing. The German explorer and globetrotter Baron Kuno Damian von Schütz-Holzhausen struck a deal with the government: 10 000 German settlers were to move into the region over a period of six years. They were to be farmers and craftsmen and would receive some money and land. The government would also pay for their passage to Peru and build a road there.

The Baron published the offer in a Prussian newspaper. It was well received. In Tyrol, Joseph Egg was recruited as a priest to help the poor families there. The fact that a priest would be there naturally gave the families confidence. But it wasn’t that simple: the settlers also had to be able, Catholic and of impeccable character. All of this, of course, had to be certified by a priest.

180 Tyroleans embarked on the adventure. They travelled by train to Antwerp, where they were joined by 120 Rhinelanders and Bavarians. On 29 March 1857, the ship left for America, arriving in Peru at the end of July. But the destination was far from being reached.

The journey continued eastwards across the Andes mountain range. Eventually, there was no path to follow. They had to make their own way and build one. Some died, others settled. After two years, in July 1859, 156 settlers (including new descendants) finally arrived in Pozuzo.

The Prussians founded the village of Prussia on one side of the river, while the Tyroleans settled in Pozuzo. Later, other groups of settlers arrived and the community grew despite the difficulties. Other villages such as Oxapampa, Villa Rica and Codo del Pozuzo were founded.

However, for 100 years they were almost cut off from the world and could only be reached by foot. It was only 50 years ago that a road was built to Oxapampa, but it is still in questionable condition, despite being designated a ‘national road’. The road is narrow, with stops for passing each other. There are also landslides that make the road impassable at times. On our way there we had to wait for a while because a lorry got stuck and there was no way through. Another truck pulled it out.

Between tradition and Disneyland

Oxapampa itself has lost much of its old charm. It is becoming more of an Alpine Disneyland for rich tourists from the Peruvian capital, Lima. Prusia still has its charm; we had a wonderful meal there (schnitzel with potato salad) and enjoyed the beautiful scenery and the hospitality. But it was not until we arrived in Codo del Pozuzo that we experienced the real local life.

The village was founded in 1967 and for a long time was shunned because of the coca plantations, as well as cattle farming. As a result, the cartels are very present. But now it is quite quiet, even if it is not really worth seeing. Nevertheless, we visited a colleague of Michael’s who was volunteering there and we were warmly welcomed by the host family. 

It was a lovely Christmas. We saw their Christmas performances where the Krampus (Austrian mythological creature) kidnaps the naughty children and learnt to dance a little polka. They still dance the traditional polka and waltz here. There are youth groups and big competitions between the villages in the region.

But almost nobody speaks German any more, and if they do, it’s hard for us to understand. The Tyrolean dialect, especially the old one, is only understood by the true natives of Pozuzo.

Peru is known among overlanders for its adventurous roads. We got to feel that here. Still full of confidence, we decide in the morning not to drive through the Amazon lowlands, but to take the more scenic route over the mountains. According to Google Maps, it’s not that far and it won’t take that long – 10 hours, according to Google. Well, Google, as so often here in the south, we shouldn’t have trusted you. (How Google keeps misleading us will be the subject of another article at some point).

The route is beautiful. It takes us through the tropical rainforest, through coffee plantations, past mango and avocado trees full of fruit. Unfortunately it’s steep, the trees are high and we can’t reach the fruit. But we still enjoy the view.

The villages are small, rather poor, but neat and tidy. Every house has a small flowerbed, which is now in full bloom in the southern spring. As I said, really beautiful.

The last refuge of the Incas

The valley is known as the last refuge of the Incas after the Spanish conquest of Peru. It is thought that 20 000 fighters hid there and fought for their independence for 38 years. But the story begins very differently. Manco Inca greeted Francisco Pizarro when he arrived in Cuzco in 1533, and Pizarro recognised him as an Inca governor. However, Manco Inca became increasingly dissatisfied with the Spanish leadership, who demanded too much gold and silver as taxes and did not tolerate traditional beliefs. Manco Inca saw that his figure was nothing more than decoration; he no longer had any power.

He therefore tried to take back the city. With the promise of bringing the Spaniards gold statues, Manco Inca was able to leave the city and raise an army. He returned with 10 000 men and laid siege to Cuzco for nine months. But none of this helped. After several battles and when the Spanish obtained additional aid, he retreated with his men to the valley of Vilcabamba. Manco Inca was murdered in 1545 and his sons were unable to put up much of a fight against the Spanish. His son Tupac Amaru, who took over the leadership of the resistance, was finally sentenced to death in 1572 and publicly beheaded in the main square of Cuzco. This was the end of the resistance.

The valley is not far from Cuzco, but difficult to reach. Even today. The route is long. The road is narrow and winds through the Andes from valley to valley. From 1000 metres to over 4500 metres, from the green of the Amazon to the icy fog. We passed the first pass. Four more to go.

Traffic is light, fortunately, because in most places there is not enough space for a vehicle. Many of the slopes have slipped, and we have to cross small streams again and again. And yet in the furthest corner there is still a small house made of stone and clay, and horses, sheep, alpacas and llamas graze in the meadow.

Up and down, up and down, this goes on for hours. The Toyota can’t cope with the altitude. Not enough oxygen, less power. The heating is on so the engine doesn’t overheat and we don’t have to stop. But we couldn’t go much faster anyway, because the road has too many bends.

When it got dark, we asked in a village if we could spend the night there. But it’s just starting to drizzle and the teacher tells us to drive to Amaybamba. Otherwise we might not make it the next day. The rain keeps making the road slide. But at the moment it’s fine, he says, he’s often driven at night, so it’s fine. So ok, two hours down the mountain it is. Luckily, we don’t see the abyss.

We arrive completely tired, one last food stall is still open and there is fried chicken. It tasted better than expected and the cook’s children peppered us with questions. The area is famous for its coffee, which is why foreigners sometimes come here to visit the companies, or as missionaries. They don’t know any other white people. We gave each of them a foreign coin: one euro and fifty swiss-cents. And we received a beaming smile as a thank you.

Where do they have diesel?

Up and down, up into the cold of the mountains with a view of the glaciers and then back down into the heat of the barren valley. Up through the cloud forest, down along the plantations.

Beautiful, but endless. At some point we just want to get back on a tarmac road and find a proper petrol station.

It was during this period, at the height of the Inca Empire, that Machu Picchu was built: one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the example of Inca architecture and engineering.

And indeed, it is incredible. Both the ancient architecture and the modern organisation that guides thousands of tourists through the ruins every day are remarkable.

We tried to visit the ruins of Machu Picchu as independently as possible. So we drove to Santa Teresa, where the hydroelectric platform is located, left the car in a secure car park and started the first hike at 5 am.

There are other treks that last several days, such as the Salkantay trek, but apparently it is quite touristy and it was more complicated to organise ourselves without depending on an operator. So we opted for this other option.

We followed the tracks of the train. It was a beautiful walk at dawn, with no one but the four of us (we were with a young German couple). Until we reached Aguas Calientes.

Aguas Calientes can be seen as the fortress that awaits Machu Picchu. All visitors have to pass through it and it was built for the sole purpose of getting people to the ruins and satisfying the whims of the visitors.

When we arrived in the village at 7am, we saw an endless queue of people waiting for the bus to the entrance of the site. We had to wait in another queue to get a number to get one of the thousand tickets available for the next day. We were given numbers 70-73 and told to come back at three in the afternoon.

In the meantime we ate the worst and most expensive breakfast of our trip and looked for a relatively cheap hotel for the night (35 US$). At three we went back to the office, queued up and got our tickets. Afterwards we celebrated with several rounds of Pisco Sour. At least this one was tasty.

The next morning, reluctant to spend 25 dollars on the bus, we did the second hike. One hour, 1.7 kilometres, 500 metres uphill.

We arrived out of breath and had to wait the 15 minutes (there was no one else there) until 9 o’clock, as the ticket slot said, to get in. So all the tourists whose turn it was at 9 o’clock went in at exactly the same time.

Nevertheless, we were very lucky. The sky cleared and the sun even came out, so we were able to enjoy Machu Picchu in all its splendour (making room between the others) and queuing for a good photo (it doesn’t happen too often that we have to queue).

But yes, there is something magical about this place. It’s not clear if it was a spiritual place or a palace, or both. The secret is still hidden among the stones. What is known is that it had good communications with the other Inca cities in the region; even the Spaniards knew about it, although it seems that they did not go to the city to collect the annual tributes, but had them taken to Ollantaytambo.

As time went on, Machu Picchu became more and more isolated. However, it never fell into complete oblivion, as is often thought. The site was known in the region and mentioned in various sources over the centuries, although it was never again the city it once was. The American explorer Hiram Bingham simply recognised its importance and encouraged its excavation in 1911.

Today it is Peru’s main tourist attraction. It welcomes up to 1.6 million tourists a year, about 4000 per day, of which 1000 tickets are sold the day before and those available in advance usually sell out quickly.

Frankly, the number of tourists is insane and they try to control it by restricting access to the site and guiding the masses through established circuits. It works pretty well. The big tourist impact is most noticeable in the town of Aguas Calientes, where there has been an uncontrolled growth of hotels, lodges and restaurants.

After visiting Machu Picchu, we were glad to get back to our car and escape the crowds, having walked back along the train tracks for two hours in the rain. This time we were met by several guided tour groups. No more walking back quietly as we had done the previous morning.

Unlike Machu Picchu, Pisac is less frequented. It is supposed to be one of the most important ruins, but most people don’t have the time or desire to walk down to the bottom. Most tourists only see the upper part and leave right away. So we found ourselves walking around the entire site, built around 1440, all alone by ourselves.

Exactly why it was built is unknown. On the one hand, it is believed that it protected the southern entrance to the Sacred Valley and served as a resting place for the ruler Pachacuti between military campaigns. After all, the Incas were a rather warlike people. On the other hand, it is surprising but seems to be that the Spaniards did not mention a word about it during their first conquests. It was not until 1877 that the American Ephraim Squier described the place.

The cultivation terraces built right into the mountainside are impressive. And the numerous caves that served as tombs were also chosen on a hillside that was difficult to access. Michi simply said that he was not surprised that they buried the dead on the cliffs if they did not even cultivate in the valley, where everything would be flat. Pedro also told us something about it: the caves are empty, they only found some copper needles and many bones. He helped in the exploration that was done in the fifties. So it was not worth looking any further, unless we wanted to see bats.

So we walked slowly through the ruins, without adventurous detours, and marvelled at the architecture of the Incas.

In Pisac we got to know the Inca stones, so to be ready for Machu Picchu, we had to get used to the masses of tourists. That is what we did the next day. A few kilometres further from Pisac, we visited the Inca salt mines of Maras. We encountered huffing tourists, impatient and stressed guides, drivers with a good accelerator and someone playing ABBA on the pan flute. And yes, it is impressive to see that the salt pans are still in operation, but it was also good to be able to get away from there quickly.

The same thing happened to us at the Inca site of Moray: a kind of agricultural testing ground. The terraces are superimposed in concentric rings in which different microclimates can be recreated to study plant growth. The lower you go, the hotter it gets.